As could be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothing has received many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented by using a floppy fringe along with a suit. But even though some of his efforts to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the latest element of the Biebvolution is in fact bang around the fashion money. We have seen ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen a lot of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) but the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in to a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
To put it briefly: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is within. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You can dub it a hot mess for guys, but the one thing you would probably never call it is hipster – manicured beards must be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore to the teen awards, has been integral towards the surge in rise in popularity of denim as well as jeans which are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the level of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to place proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere in the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that were roughly stop at the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing occurring; in close proximity, the holes during these knits are layered spanning a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a great reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, just about the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is This Man?, as the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff was also throughout one of the more talked-about moments in the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that has been locked in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just rolled out of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like in the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a activate the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots along with a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is simply set to keep: after the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy can be another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been maintained by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy take on Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, yet not.
Actually, if everything else fails, the true secret to this particular look can be a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for guys. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, by which several tracktops are featured in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a little Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – and also the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the alternative of all of the justin bieber clothing that has been the headline news in menswear in the past number of years. Not only that, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an attempt but suggests you know what’s going on. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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